By Jason Troxel
In the last post, I introduced the beginner to the basic equipment necessary to have success with a freshwater tank. Today we're diving deeper (pun intended!) to see what it takes to be successful with Saltwater aquariums. As noted in What kind of Aquarium Hobbyist Are You? there are two major configurations to choose from in the saltwater hobby: FOWLR - or fish only with live rock, or Reef tank - or a tank with live rock, fish, and one or more genus of corals.
Building on what we learned in freshwater equipment, let's quickly get the similarities out of the way. In fact, everything on the list as mandatory for freshwater (and most of the optional equipment, too) is also necessary for saltwater tanks, FOWLR or reef.
You will need temperature control, filtration, some light, a substrate, a way to make/provide water for your tank, test kits to make sure the water is suitable for your tank application, pumps to move water, tools to keep your tank clean, and much of the optional equipment - all of this also belongs in your saltwater tank. Oh, and on top of this impressive list, you'll need to consider your power distribution. The cheap multi-plug power strips are, unfortunately, everywhere in the hobby. I say unfortunately because of the number of fires I've seen from salt creep or water drips into these power strips. The best way to install these is upside down, on the highest point you can, with cords always falling away below the outlets.
Anyway, we covered so much in freshwater, you might be asking: why not use the same stuff? Ha! If only it were so simple (and cheap!)
Marine-Specific Applications:
It's a fair question, but the complexity isn't only in the application of salt. Salt does cause complexity; most notably: saltwater is corrosive. Because saltwater contains dissolved ions, such as chloride and sodium, which can react with metals to form compounds that damage the metal, everything you're going to add to your aquariums must use corrosion-resistant materials, and this adds cost. In fact, saltwater can also react with PVC, rubber, plastics, and other non-organics. The specific reaction will depend on the type of material and the concentration of salt in the water, and thankfully most applications in our hobby do not approach these thresholds, but it shows just how damaging salt can be to the things in our tanks.
Tank and Stand:
Here, at least, we can make a case for using the same type of tanks and stands as used in freshwater applications. The counter-argument is that these tanks are not designed to support the bevy of equipment that will go along with your saltwater application. In most cases, people who are committed to the saltwater aquarium experience will get a drilled tank - a tank with holes in it - on purpose! These holes allow for the hobbyist to install plumbing through a bulkhead (a fitting that is used to create a watertight seal in an aquarium) into an area of the tank called an 'overflow box' that allows the plumbing to be hidden as it goes through the stand and into the aquarium sump. There are a number of options that can create "overflow box like" solutions for traditional tanks that are not drilled, too, so the hobbyists need not worry that s/he has the wrong type of tank; the popularity of drilled tanks means there's an option, but it is up to the hobbyist to decide the method they'll choose.
Saltwater-specific tanks come in many form factors, dimensions, and configurations; one of the more popular options today is the rimless tank, providing the tank with a very clean, minimalist look and feel. These tanks typically do not have a top hutch and are intended to be viewed without obstructions. Custom tanks are also available, though I do not recommend this for the absolute beginner, as these constitute a significant investment that is risky for the first time hobbyist.
A few quick thoughts on the stand itself:
if you're going to a big box pet store, you will usually be limited to a few stand sets that are based on tank size, or a packaged tank and stand combo. that the store is advertising together.
A smarter option is to head to a reputable local fish store (LFS), where you'll have a number of options to choose from, including mix and match. An LFS will help you find a stand that meets your needs. Those needs could include the number of holes you want for your plumbing, the type of material (wood or metal), the style you're after, and convenience factors like the usable area below the tank (important when considering which equipment placement and husbandry), the height of your aquarium deck, adjustable feet to level the tank, and overall design or look of the tank.
Built-ins are tanks that appear as a picture frame in a wall; in these cases, the stand need not be anything more than a frame, but should still provide the capability to support the tank's total weight, as well as provide room for and access to equipment, if stored below the tank.
Lighting:
The next biggest differentiator for reef hobbyists is the photosynthetic requirements for the corals in their tank. FOWLR tanks are predator tanks: you feed the predators (Fish) with a mixture of proteins, fats, amino acids, etc. (aka - fish food), the fish process the food and pass waste, and the bacteria finish the process breaking down fish waste into ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. The only reason for a light on a FOWLR tank is to enjoy the contents. Not so in the reef tank. The majority of our corals are photosynthetic, meaning they get their nutrients from the artificial lights we put on the tanks.
The good news is that we're living in a marvelous age of aquariums and the future is now! Okay, that's a little over the top, but truthfully, lighting has changed in dramatic ways over the last decade. A decade ago, lights were typically metal halide or fluorescent and they were expensive and required a lot of maintenance. Even worse, they produced a lot of heat, which the hobbyist had to manage to keep the aquatic temperatures stable; even then, the lights still did not provide the full spectrum of light that corals need to thrive. Today, LED lights have made significant gains in the hobby, and for good reason. In addition to addressing the shortcomings of metal halide and fluorescent systems noted above, LED lights are designed to produce a wider spectrum of light, benefiting corals, which need a variety of wavelengths of light to thrive. Intensity, which pushes light further into the tank; color, helpful in providing a more appealing look to your tank; energy efficiency; and overall lifespan have also all improved with LED lighting. There are still plenty of reefers who are using non-LED lighting; and there are those who mix modern and traditional ligthing systems to get a hybrid best of both worlds. But without a doubt - LED lighting has changed forever the way we approach the hobby.
Okay, good news aside, what's the downside? These lights are a significant expenditure up front; your needs will be determined by the size of your tank (both height and length) as well as your specific photosynthetic requirements. My 8' long, 3' tall tanks require enough lights to have overlap in the light cast, as well as the strength to get a suitable amount of photosynthesis at the bottom of the tank (this latter part is defined by the term PAR, which we'll get into in a future post.) In my case, that meant three AP700 LED Lighting Panels from Kessil; even though this light is discontinued, it is still being sold for almost $800 for each new unit.
Pumps:
Pumps move water; in our aquarium hobby that is typically limited to two applications: powerheads and return pumps. Gravity and an appropriately installed overflow bring water into the sump, where it goes through the sump chambers before a return pump pushes water back to the main display tank. The hobbyist should buy pumps that meet three criteria:
Flow rate. The flow rate is the amount of water that the pump can move per hour. The flow rate you need will depend on the size of your tank and the type of livestock you plan to keep.
Head pressure. The head pressure is the amount of pressure that the pump can create to move water vertically. The head pressure you need will depend on the height of your tank, the height of your tank above your sump, and the amount and size of plumbing you have.
Power type. The hobbyist will have the option to choose between alternating current (AC) powered pumps and direct current (DC) powered pumps. We used to say that DC pumps were much quieter than AC pumps, and that AC pumps were much more economical than DC pumps. DC pumps came with the advantages of variable speeds and higher durability, too. Today, the lines are blurring, with AC Pumps becoming far more reliable and significantly less noisy, while DC pumps are becoming more affordable and more available.
We also used to size our return pumps based around water movement inside the tank, too. This was before the advent of powerheads and wave makers, which have now come down in price and up in reliability. The old rule of thumb was that the pump should be able to move at least 10 times the volume of your tank per hour. For example, if you have a 100-gallon tank, you will need a pump that can move at least 1,000 gallons per hour. These days, many of the LFS professionals I speak with refer to 3x or 5x turnover per hour. The lower the flow, the cheaper the pump (in general), so this is not a trivial decision. In my own tanks I've chosen a to buy DC pumps that are 10x flow, but I have them turned down to ~5x. I will occasionally pump the flow all the way up during cleaning cycles, but the majority of my in-tank water flow comes from powerheads.
Powerheads:
Water movement is crucial to a healthy tank. If there is any confusion, please reread that, because this is one of the biggies - if you don't provide water circulation in a freshwater tank, your return pump will typically provide enough water movement to keep things from getting stagnant. If you don't provide water circulation in a saltwater tank, your saltwater tank will die. Water movement provides:
Improved water quality: Water movement helps to remove debris and waste from the water column. This helps to improve water quality and reduce the risk of algae blooms.
Increased oxygen levels: Water movement will increase the oxygen levels in the water by creating aerating currents. This is important for the health of your fish and corals, as they need oxygen to survive.
Reduced stress: Water movement reduces stress levels in your fish and corals by creating a more natural environment. In the wild, fish and corals are constantly exposed to currents, so providing them with a similar environment in your aquarium can help to reduce stress and promote good health.
How do we provide water movement? Via a special type of pump called a powerhead. Powerheads can be used to create a variety of water flow patterns, including waves, surges, and even storm conditions. Powerheads typically include a controller, a power connection, the ability to direct the water flow, and some add-ons which allow for the protection of tank inhabitant's who would otherwise get chopped up by the pump's propeller.
Determining the number and size of powerheads you need will be directly dependent on the type of livestock you intend to keep. SPS (acropora corals) will require a high flow to help them remove the waste that builds up and can quickly become toxic to the coral. Some fish need a high flow to swim against for adequate exercise. In addition, your tank setup will also influence how many and how powerful you should go; bare-bottom tanks can tolerate a much higher flow than a tank with a sandbed, which when presented with too much flow will cloud the water and shift the sand. Finally, placement within the tank will also influence size of powerheads. This is another great place where a LFS can help provide information that is valuable in your purchase decisions.
Live Rock:
A saltwater tank without live rock is just an overly expensive, transparent bucket of saltwater. Why? First - your fish get scared without someplace to hide. Sure, you could use plastic or fake decorations, but there's another reason: Bacteria. Because bacteria are essential to maintain water quality, we want them to feel welcome in our tanks. Live rock is both a source of this bacteria, as well as a palce for added bacteria to live and multiply. In our tanks, bacteria live in the rock, the substrate, on the walls and floor of the tank, even in our fish's gills. But because live rock is so porous it provides the ultimate hangout for those bacteria we want. Finally, rock gives us someplace to put our corals, gives our Clean Up Crew a place to hide and live, etc. Tons of reasons - but bacteria is really the engine that could.
Bacteria break down fish waste into ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Ammonia is the most toxic form of nitrogen, and it can be harmful to fish and other aquatic life. Nitrites are less toxic than ammonia, but they can still be harmful to fish in high concentrations. Nitrates are the least toxic form of nitrogen, and they are not harmful to fish in low concentrations.
In a healthy aquarium, the bacteria that break down fish waste will quickly convert ammonia and nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are then removed from the aquarium through water changes. However, if there is too much fish waste in the aquarium, the bacteria may not be able to keep up with the breakdown process. This can lead to a buildup of ammonia and nitrites, which can be harmful to fish.
Rock is also a key component to the aesthetic of our tanks. Often referred to as aquascaping, aquarists assemble rock into eye-appealing arches, caves, and outcroppings that give the tank a sense of depth, scale, and dimension.
Filtration:
I say filtration instead of filter or filters because where we're at in the hobby today has really come about due to the advances in sumps and equipment that is included in a sump system.
We covered the basics of sumps in an earlier post "Sump" Thing to Consider, including sizing, costs, and what to include inside the sump. The focus here is the filtration equipment, and the sump provides a great place to house these essential components. There are four main stages of filtration in a saltwater aquarium: mechanical, biological, living, and chemical.
Mechanical filtration removes large particles from the water, such as fish waste, uneaten food, and dead algae. This is usually done with a filter sponge or filter pad.
Biological filtration removes dissolved waste products from the water, such as ammonia and nitrite. This is done by beneficial bacteria that live on surfaces in the tank, such as live rock, sand, and filter media.
Living Filtration removes waste, toxins, and chemicals from the water as a byproduct of the lifecycle of these living media.
Chemical filtration removes specific chemicals from the water, such as chlorine and chloramine. This is usually done with activated carbon or other chemical media.
For mechanical filtration, VTC recommends at least two stages: Pre-filtration and a protein skimming.
Pre-filtration: This stage removes large particles from the water, such as fish waste, uneaten food, and dead algae. This is usually done with a filter sock(s) or filter pad and most commercial sumps are designed for these solutions. In the last year or two, a third option has become quite popular, which is a roller mat. Like filter socks, the idea is to catch the biggest particles from the water as it leaves the main display tank; this usually means that it's the first stage of your sump, and this will necessitate frequent cleaning. The roller mat reduces this frequency by mechanical means of rolling out clean, new filter media while rolling up dirty, used filter media. Think of a roll of paper towels that you roll off of one tube and onto an empty tube, with the space between the two tubes being the are that the water passes over. Filter pads are great for very large systems; they can be disposable or reusable, and are very easy to put in and take out.
Protein Skimmers are a type of mechanical filtration that removes organic compounds from the water. Protein skimmers are one of the items that should be closely matched to the size of your tank. A protein skimmer that is too undersized for your tank will not be effective at removing the organic compounds from the water, which will result in your nitrates and phosphates rising rapidly. A protein skimmer that is too oversized for your tank will have tuning issues in acheiving the porous foam that traps and lifts the debris to the collection cup; since this tuning is essential to the effective operation of the skimmer, having too large a skimmer can be counter-productive by failing to collect the organic compounds.
There are other filtration stages. One of the more common is called Fine-filtration: This stage removes smaller particles from the water, such as dissolved organic matter (DOM). This is usually done with a filter cartridge or filter floss. If the Pre-filtration and the Protein Skimmers are failing to remove enough of the waste in the tank (which can be identified by rising nitrates and phosphates), then adding a fine-filtration can help with lowering these parameters.
Biological Filtration in the sump is a continuation of the biological filtration within the live rock (and substrate) within the display tank. Yep, those little bio bugs are everywhere in our tank and the more we have, the better. VTC promotes biological filtration in the sump by including bio media (manmade porous media for a similar purpose as live rock) to host the bacteria. There are many beneficial bacteria that are frequently found in or added to the sump or aquarium:
Nitrosomonas bacteria: Nitrifying bacteria are responsible for converting ammonia into nitrites. This is the first step in the nitrogen cycle.
Nitrobacter bacteria: Nitrobacter bacteria are responsible for converting nitrites into nitrates. This is the second and final step in the nitrogen cycle.
Denitrifying bacteria: Denitrifying bacteria convert nitrates into nitrogen gas, which is a harmless gas that escapes into the atmosphere. This helps to keep the levels of nitrates in the aquarium low.
Phosphorus-removing bacteria: Phosphorus-removing bacteria convert phosphorus into phosphate, which is a less harmful form of phosphorus. This helps to keep the levels of phosphorus in the aquarium low.
Beneficial bacteria for coral reefs: There are a number of different types of bacteria that are beneficial for coral reefs. These bacteria help to keep the coral healthy and to prevent diseases.
Not every one of these bacteria are necessary for every saltwater aquarium. The specific bacteria that you need will depend on the size and type of aquarium that you have, as well as the types of fish and other animals that you keep. If you are unsure about which bacteria you need, this is another great excuse to vist your LFS. They can help you to create a custom plan for your aquarium that will ensure that it has the right balance of beneficial bacteria.
Living Filtration uses the unique aspects of different plants, algae, and/or organisms to maintain a clean and healthy tank. This is an area we don't think gets enough attention, so we're excited to share here with you:
Clean Up Crew: Snails, Shrimp, Worms, Starfish, and crabs (Hermit, Emerald, Porcelain, etc.) are the first stage of the Living Filtration. Many members of a clean up crew will graze on algae, which can help to reduce the amount of algae in your tank. And yet other members of a clean up crew will eat detritus, which is a collection of organic matter that can build up in your tank. This can help to keep your tank clean and free of pollutants. Remember, the sump is the final stages of filtration before water is returned to the display tank; the more our living filtration can take care of in the display tank, the less that makes it to the sump - and this is good!
Chaetomorpha is a type of macroalgae that is often used in saltwater aquariums as a form of nutrient export. It does this by absorbing nutrients from the water column, which helps to reduce the levels of nitrates and phosphates. This can help to prevent algae blooms and keep the water quality in the aquarium stable. Chaetomorpha can be a valuable part of a saltwater aquarium's filtration system. By absorbing nutrients from the water column, it can help to reduce the levels of nitrates and phosphates, which can prevent algae blooms and keep the water quality in the aquarium stable.
"Pods" or more scientifically Calanoids, are a diverse group of crustaceans that includes over 10,000 species. They are found in all aquatic environments, from freshwater to saltwater. Pods are an important part of the food chain, and they are a food source for many fish, invertebrates, and even some amphibians. Pods are excellent filter feeders, which means that they feed on small particles of food that are suspended in the water column. Most LFS will carry a selection of pods, but we at VTC have begun buying ours online as there are more options with live shipping that are just not as easy to ship and store in a showroom. Pods do require a food source in addition to the detritis of the tank, so the hobbyists will need to provide them with a food source, such as phytoplankton or rotifers. Once you have copepods in your aquarium, they will help to keep the water clean by consuming detritus and other small particles. They will also help to control algae blooms by consuming algae spores.
Bristleworms are a type of marine worm that is found in both saltwater and freshwater aquariums. They are generally considered to be beneficial to aquariums, as they help to control algae growth and provide food for fish and other invertebrates. However, some species of bristleworms can become pests if they overpopulate, so it is important to monitor their numbers. It is also important to call out that their name is given by the hair-like structures on their bodies that are defensive in nature, causing an irritation to skin; in other words, do ever touch them without gloves.
Mangroves: A mangrove is a brush or tree that grows in saline or brackish water. They improve water quality by removing toxins and pollutants., and by lowering nitrates in the aquarium water. Mangroves also provide food and shelter for a variety of marine life, including fish, shrimp, and crabs. This can help to create a more natural and balanced ecosystem in your tank. When placing a mangrove in your sump, note that you will need to provide a source of photosynthetic light for their growth.
Refugium Mud: Refugium mud is made from a blend of natural materials, such as live sand, crushed coral, and other marine-grade materials. Refugium mud is not living itself, but provides a habitat for a variety of beneficial organisms, including bacteria, algae, and invertebrates. Mud also promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria and algae, which can help to improve water quality and reduce the need for water changes, while also helping to export nutrients from the main tank.
Chemical Filtration is, as the name implies, is a type of filtration that uses chemicals to remove pollutants from saltwater aquarium water. It is an important part of any saltwater aquarium setup, as it can help to improve water quality and prevent problems such as algae blooms and fish diseases.
Activated carbon is one of the most common types of chemical filtration media. It is a highly porous material that can absorb a wide variety of pollutants, including chlorine, chloramine, ammonia, and organic matter. Activated carbon is a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-use type of media, making it a good option for beginner aquarists.
GFO (granular ferric oxide) is another popular form of chemical filtration media that is becoming increasingly common in home aquariums because it removes phosphates from saltwater aquarium water. Phosphates are a major nutrient for algae, so removing them from the water can help to prevent algae blooms. GFO is more expensive than activated carbon, but it is more effective at removing phosphates. VTC combines Activated Carbon and GFO into a single container for our clients. There are some small benefits to dosing these individually, particularly because of the lifespan. That said, we change our activated carbon every three weeks and although GFO would last three times that long, we are only using a small amount of GFO per application.
Though there are a wide variety of chemical filtration, the last one we see most commonly is Purigen. Purigen is a type of resin that can remove a wide variety of pollutants from saltwater aquarium water. Purigen is more expensive than activated carbon or GFO, but it can be more effective at removing a wider range of pollutants.
Unlike living filtration, chemical filtration must be replenished frequently. Activated carbon should be changed every few weeks, GFO should be changed every few months, and Purigen should be changed every few years.
There is such a vast array of optional equipment that can be added to the essential tank components that it warrants its own post. For now, we'll wrap up and hope that you've benefited from this basic list of equipment for the tank.